Footprints: A tale of two restaurants
I arrived at the Copacabana Palace unhurriedly and eagerly.
It had all been Bishop's fault. Bishop, who in the 1950s had recommended it to his friend, the poet Robert Lowell.
And there I was, in front of that unmistakable façade. A jewel of Rio's art deco. A special sensation ran through my veins, similar to the one I felt at the Palácio Quitandinha. I was walking on the same marble floor as Orson Welles, Brigitte Bardot, Albert Einstein, Princess Diana and the Rolling Stones. And those were just the figures I remembered from memory.
My ocean view room was everything I could have imagined and more. With the beach less than 50 meters away from the main entrance, it is very easy to understand why so many illustrious people chose it as the location for their Rio wanderings.
In addition to its legendary suites, legendary décor and legendary guests, the Copacabana Palace is famous for its restaurants. And that's where I was headed, ready for an unforgettable culinary visit.
Bishop and Lota had visited the hotel with Robert Lowell, the famous American poet. Lota had an apartment in Rio apart from his house in Petrópolis, so only Lowell and his wife rented a suite. Together they spent a few days surrounded by Lota's intelligent friends and chatted about literature and politics in the various areas of the hotel. They had even attended a concert by Vinícius de Moraes, whom Lowell would later describe as a great voice.
Vinícius was the name of my waiter at Mee, the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Palace. With a great knowledge of the menu, it was a pleasure to place my order. It seems unbelievable that one of the most exquisite Asian dishes in the world was tasted here in Rio, but it was. Chef Ken Hom's skill was unquestionable.
Filipe Rizzato also excelled with his dishes at the Pergula restaurant. Here there was nothing of Asia, but rather a vibrant Carioca culture permeated every corner, from the decoration to the menu. Yellows, greens, blues... the inspiration was clear. I was especially in love with the background mural, a painting of a completely natural Rio de Janeiro without buildings that, together with the Dorothy Draper leaves I had discovered at Quitandinha, ended up closing the idea of where my Petrópolis mural would be born.
Lota, Elizabeth and the Lowells escaped to Petrópolis every weekend, except for one, when they exchanged the beaches of Copacabana for those of Cabo Frio. Between these expeditions to nature, great figures were also present among them. After all, it is not every day that one can have dinner with two Pulitzer Prize winners and a renowned architect. Imagine the topics of conversation!
My stay at the Copacabana Palace was one where I discovered many traces of these characters; and I left some of my own as well. Maybe someday I will return, with my partner, a friend or a great love. As I get ready to go to the pool to enjoy the good weather, an idea is going around in my head. An idea that this trip has made clear to me: that the past builds us, the present shapes us and the future is that dream to be fulfilled.
What will be my next dream?